We decided to take a different approach to France. Instead of going to Paris and spending most of our time and money there, sort of like going to New York to “see” the United States, we wanted to see the “real” France. I decided on three regions – not an easy choice – and began with Normandy.
Dieppe is a good place to start for Normandy. "Dieppe" comes from the Viking word for "deep" because this was the best harbor all along this coast. Naturally with an 80-boat fishing fleet in Dieppe there are great seafood meals to be had, especially the famous scallops of Dieppe and the famous scallop dish, Coquilles St. Jacques Normandy. That’s the obvious choice of entrée, but not to be overlooked is the soup blending several fish, or mussels in cream sauce, or cod with langoustine sauce and fried onions, or the bass stuffed with scallops. And they are available for a decent price, if you take a little time to research your restaurant choices.

Sight-seeing in Dieppe included of course the 500-year-old castle with its collection of ivory carvings. . For 300 years Dieppe was the major center for working ivory, and at one time 5700 people in Dieppe were ivory workers.

Of course we went to The Cité de la Mer that exhibits all the different kinds of local sea life and does special studies. One project when we were there was studying like the cunning cuttlefish in regard to how nature achieves balance. It is not just a great aquarium but also has historical seafaring and navigational exhibits. Amazingly, the last one ready to leave was Larry – he was really into the hands-on navigation.

Sam planned our trip for September for several reasons, one of them being the International Kite Festival in Dieppe. There were 33 countries from 5 continents in that year’s Kite Festival. Most historians date kites to Indonesia about 3500 years ago, and to China about 2000 years ago. The Tartars used war kites that sent out flame and smoke to frighten the enemy. At the festival we found there was a great debate going on as to what mattered more, the art of creating the kite or the technical know-how in creating a kite. As for us, we just found the kites amazing.

From Dieppe we headed down the west coast of France to see the World War II battlegrounds. That was pretty intense, seeing what our soldiers had to land and the German fortifications they had to get through. We stopped at a museum on the way, stopped for seafood – food is great! in Normandy – but to me seeing the actually places meant more than relics in a museum. As for details, Sam can always fill those in. And for all of us, as for most people, the cemetery gave us something to think about. .

Then we went a ways further down the windy coast – lots of windsurfing possibilities – and turned inland across the marshlands. Anita got to see her storks – very big here, an elite group of French pilots in World War I called themselves The Storks. We ended up at a farm where Sam had gotten us lodgings for a few days while we explored more of Normandy. A farm? I thought that was great. You have to understand, Normandy is famous for apples and for dairy products – lots of butter and creamy sauces – as well as a special kind of chicken and a special kind of beef. Cooking is serious business in Normandy, and that suited me just fine.

We kept our car and driver so we could explore, and our first day we headed to Rouen and to Bayeux where we saw the famous Bayeux tapestry, 75 yards long with 58 different scenes, from the battle preparations to the famous 1066 Battle of Hastings when William the Conqueror conquered England. His wife sewed it while her husband was off doing battle. Myrna said that If her husband were off for years at a time, she would not sit around sewing scenes of his exploits like poor Queen Mathilde. But I think she made her own fame by turning linen and wool thread into one of the most famous tapestries in the world. England got out from under Normandy, but the Bayeux tapestry is still here. And still beautiful

Another great Normandy meal where we realized that dogs are welcome to come in with their masters at a French restaurant and that not all French dogs are little poodles. Then we drove to La Cambe and visited a real old-fashioned forge, La Forge d’Art, where the smithy, Monsieur Coussot, makes everything from iron gates and balustrades to candleholders. Hand wrought iron is practically a lost art, so naturally, Myrna found plenty to buy, direct from the artisan. And so did the rest of us.

I decided that one characteristic of French people or at least most of them, is that they love to race. Anything. Our second trip was over to Rabodanges on the Seine river which looks perfectly calm until they open up a sluice gate and then, it’s whitewater kayaking competition. It was great to watch. France wins Olympic medals in this event, both men and women. The day we were there we met gold medalist Tony Estanguet , which made the day for Myrna, and after the competition both Larry and Anita got to try the course themselves. They did pretty well.

Another day we drove to Eure to visit the only deer farm in France that is registered both nationally and internationally, but there are about 900 of them. It was a beautiful farm, but I’m not sure Anita was very comfortable with the knowledge that in France venison like beef is a livestock business. From Eure, after another great meal -- oysters in cider sauce, marbled beef and honeyed madeleines, -- we circled back through Trévières to visit the Poterie d'Art Coffignal. Both Mr. and Mrs. Coffignal are potters, which gave Karen lots to ask about and Myrna a few more things to buy.

Sam did the planning for this trip, so of course we were in Formigny for the medieval festival, but we girls did a little planning of our own. It just so happened that the festival and re-enactment coincided with Sam’s birthday, so with the help of our friend and driver, we arranged for medieval costumes for all of us. Everyone local is involved, -- we saw M. Coffignal as a medieval potter working away. It was a wonderful festival. All sorts of things to buy, of course, but jousts and fights and music.

But that year there was also the re-enactment of the Battle of Formigny, one of the first ever to use cannon in warfare and one of the last (they say the last) of the 100 Years War between England and France. The battlegrounds were roped off with pathways for those of us who were spectators to wander about. It was very realistic, even carts to haul off the “dead bodies” and a great victory at the end when Richemont with his Bretons came in like the cavalry. I can’t think of a better way for Sam to celebrate his birthday.

That was the first leg of our trip to France. Next we will head to Burgundy. Larry’s excited. Burgundy is also famous for its food – and its wine. We’ll tell you all about it next month.

Comments or questions?
E-mail me at Beverly